Varanasi and it's food

Varanasi/Benaras is a city on the river Ganges/Ganga in the state of Uttar Pradesh in India. It's considered a holy city and one of oldest continuously inhabited city. It's temples, ghats and lanes are timeless. One could wander through the city for days and weeks and still discover something new every day.

I have a special connection with Varanasi as I was born here and spend my childhood here till I left to pursue my engineering studies in Chennai. As a family we moved out of Varanasi in late 1990s but the pull to visit the city has always been strong in me through all these years. So finally after telling Jamna stories of Varanasi for several years, we visited Varanasi in the 3rd week of December 2013. Although our trip covered lots of religious and historical landmarks, this post is limited to the food that we ate in Varanasi and around. Street food and QSRs are dime a dozen in the city and most of them serve excellent fare while prices are minimal. We had our fill of the local delicacies and street food. We did miss the famous Lassi of Ramnagar but we'll make it up on our next trip to Varanasi.

I should add that winter season is the best time to enjoy your food in Northern parts of India as the temperatures are mostly down and hence extra calories burn off just countering the chill. Again, use your judgement on the quantity that you eat :) 

Varanasi is known for it's chat bhandars (shops) and stalls. The most famous chat bhandar is arguably Kashi Chat Bhandar in Godowlia area of Varanasi. You will find chat shops almost everywhere in the city, static or mobile. 

Aloo tikkis fried and ready for mixing with chats

These two are running this chat stall that their father started. I've now eaten chats from both generations. Location - West Market, DLW, Varanasi.

Aloo tikki chat ready for hogging. This is my most favourite chat item.

Golgappas, same as Pani puris in most parts of India and Fuchka in Kolkata.

Our lunch in Sarnath, Varanasi. I think the entire order cost us about Rs. 250 or less.

Ayyar's Cafe, Godowlia, Varanasi. It's known for serving idli, dosa and filter coffee for decades now.

Coffee in Ayyar's Cafe, Godowlia, Varanasi.

Cold Coffee with chocolate ice cream, outside Birla Temple, BHU Campus, Varanasi. This is a must try if you are inside BHU campus.

Litti Chokha, a rustic dish from UP/Bihar. Wheat balls stuffed with gram powder and spices. Served with mashed potatoes and tomatoes (Chokha).

Litti being roasted on coal fire.

Gulab Jamun, my favourite dessert.

Malaiyo, a winter-only special available in Dec-Jan months when it's chill.

Malaiyo is just Kesar flavoured milk froth. As light as air.

Sale starts from this huge kadahi and gets over quickly.

All ready for sale.

Madhur Jalpan, an age old sweet shop near Vishwanath Temple. I have been eating sweets from here since early 1980s.

Jalebis being prepared. They are fried first and then dipped in sugar syrup.

Jalebi serving for us.

Poori/Puri Sabji, a popular breakfast in Northern belt of India.

Rabri, a sweet prepared from reduced milk. Tastes too good.

Lassi, blended curd with sugar and ice but this taste we rarely get outside of Varanasi.

Momos being sold in Varanasi, recent addition to the city.

A plate of momos with chilli chutney as dip.

Tea, the first thing and the last thing to have. Even anytime in the day is welcome. Winter time made us consume several cups in a day to beat the chill.